“Ofurisode” (large furisode), which have a sleeve length of around 114 cm, are often worn by brides at wedding receptions as an alternative to iro uchikake. You can spot a furisode by its long-hanging sleeves which range between 80 cm and 114 cm in length. “Furisode” are the most formal style of kimono worn by young, often unmarried, women in Japan. The tradition of pairing shiromuku with the wataboshi also dates back to that period, as women used to wear kimono over their heads to protect themselves from dust and cold. Shiromuku originated as a bridal dress for samurai women during the Muromachi period. The kanji for the word “shiromuku” mean “white pure-innocence,” and as the color white is a sacred color that has been regarded as the "color of the sun" since ancient times, this white garment is meant to symbolize purity and gentleness of heart. Brides might often wear a shiromuku during the actual wedding ceremony and later change into an “iro uchikake” (colored uchikake) for the wedding reception. The bride also wears a “tsunokakushi” (white rectangular wedding headpiece) or a “wataboshi” (white bridal hood which is only worn with shiromuku). As with the uchikake, the bridal ensemble of a shiromuku includes matching accessories such as the “katsura” (bridal wig), “kanzashi” (hair ornaments), a “suehiro” (folding fan), a “hakoseko” (a sort of makeup pouch), and a “kaiken” (a short dagger that a samurai women had for self-defense). It is a very ornate, formal kimono that is considered Japan’s most prestigious type of traditional wedding dress. “Shiromuku” are beautifully embroidered, pure-white-on-white uchikake kimono worn by brides for traditional Japanese Shinto wedding ceremonies. It was only in the latter half of the Edo period that wealthy townswomen started to use it as a formal wedding garment. In certain Edo-period “yukaku” (legal red-light districts), it was even adopted as fashionable kimono by “tayu” (highest-rank courtesans). During the Edo period (1603 - 1868), women of higher position at Edo Castle or senior court ladies at the Imperial Palace wore it on a daily basis as well. Uchikake first appeared in the Muromachi period (1336 - 1573), worn by samurai women. The name “uchikake” comes from the verb “uchikakeru” (to drape upon) which refers to a fashion of the ruling classes in the 16th century to wear kimono unbelted over other garments.
The particularly thick and long hem also has the effect of making the wearer look taller thanks to a trick of enhanced perspective. Thus, to prevent wear, it is equipped with a thick padding of wadding along the hem. An uchikake kimono is also tailored to be one size longer than the kimono worn inside it, so that it can trail along the floor. Uchikake are also adorned with embroidery, decorated by using different techniques such as “shibori” (tie-dyeing) and “surihaku” (impressing gold or silver foil on fabric.)Īs it is worn over the actual kimono and doesn’t have to be tied with an “obi” belt, the lavish motifs cover the entire garments with auspicious images such as cranes, turtles, phoenixes, pine trees, bamboo, plum blossoms, and ox carts. “Uchikake” refers only to the outer layer of the traditional wedding attire for women which often uses bright red or white as ground colors symbolizing rebirth as a wife. “Uchikake” are highly formal kimono only used as bridalwear or during traditional stage performances such as kabuki.
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